Quote from: Jaanus on September 15, 2025, 23:49:23 Hve to be more mindful about the weather, when others need to use the lift and this needs to go outside for a moment

I shared a garage with a friend a long time ago and a shared garage does have these kind of disadvantage. Like missing tools ect. Lucky me, the garage next to it came available and i could have it and still bin there for 30 years now. But now looking for a house with a garage.

Since the car is without paint and bondo i would look into tinning the bodywork especially the weld seams. It prevents water into the seams, so no rust and no more cracking bondo due flex and stress in the metal. Yes its not cheap or easy but when done right it saves you a lot of frustration and work in the future. And use a epoxy primer as a first coat. Epoxy primer does not absorb water like other primers and bondo do and therefor protecting the metal much beter against rust.

 

Already thought of the drain.

I've had to push it outside twice while it rained(not even much). Not good   
Hve to be more mindful about the weather, when others need to use the lift and this needs to go outside for a moment


Just trying not to paint it and then have to grind paint off next week 
Some parts i think i wont be touching again have gotten a coat

Looking good. Nice work.

I would advice to make drain holes in the buckets and use a epoxy primer and a good seam sealer before painting as parts like the headlight buckets and rockers will see a lot of water.

Would be a shame to re-do all your hard work. Why am i saying this? well i did this for the last week and this is just 1 side of the car:





while i taught that just welding and bondo could keep water out the seams of the rear panels the bondo cracked (after some hit it) and let water in. Now i had to take it back to bare metal, cut and reweld the seams and start over. This time i tinned and leaded the seams.  Something i should have done in the first place the first time but didn't do due time constrains.

Looks very good!

For the lights i use E30 head lights with Osram LED bulbs in the 20M and for my black Capri V8. Not cheap as you need 2 sets of LED bulbs witch are 100 euros a set but the view on the road at night is superieur to the old lights. I can say its one of the best upgrades you can do to these old head lights.

Yep, coilovers are the way if keeping the Capri towers with adjustable camberplates

old headlight buckets:


CAD template




Testing making the hole for changing bulbs etc.


And in the correct piece



Both sides done. On to making the rest of it next time

Quote from: Jaanus on August 31, 2025, 14:26:36 Tops of Capri towers are fairly flat and small compared to bmw:

However the bearing top plates are still flat and around the same dimensions as a Capri. I was planning to use BMW top bearing plates on my 20M as its hard/pricy to find original 20M replacements. In the end i found 2 new 20m top bearing plates. 

I checked with my Polish visitor. The BMW springs and spring plate are bigger in size and offset to the damper so that will complicate things. Coilovers is the best way to go to gain clearance. In that case i would replace the stock dampers for adjustable ones.

We have decided to sell our Ford Sierra Minker 323 xr4x4
Number 5 of 9 ever made.
Has had full bare body strip down all welding done and was fully resprayed inside and out. Completed rust free.
Have photos and paperwork of work carried out. With receipts.
2000 miles since engine rebuild. Was running up until around a year ago.
Needs some paint work, done. This is being sold as a project as needs front diff rebuilding into a
New case (which comes with car).
Rear new back box needed but centre and down pipes are all there.
Turbine housing and turbo refitted on one side. Pipes and ancillaries reconnecting.
Lots of 2.9 litre sierra spares and also some Minker spares..
Have the booklet from Ford to prove it is a Minker which was the fastest production Sierra that you could buy from Ford as new and was faster than a Cosworth in standard spec.
Please get in touch for more information

The stock bmw springs barely fit in the towers as it is, can't move them closer to the car centerline without going coilovers.

Tops of Capri towers are fairly flat and small compared to bmw:

https://imgur.com/mF94M1W

Quote from: Jaanus on August 31, 2025, 00:32:13 Thats the general idea yep. front subframe mounts should be same starting from e30, difference in width comes from lower arms being wider for e36 and more on e46.

i chose e36, well because thats first i got.
need to add more camber with camberplates and need coilovers for that, otherwise springs will hit body.

If the lower beam is on the same centerline as the capri one you will have more or less the same caster as a capri. I would reposition the 3 mounting and hole to get the camber at the BMW specs and after that you can use camber plates for the fine adjustment. Just my idea. Using coil overs and adjustable dampers would make it a lot easier to dail the suspension in.