A bit of work on my capri

[capri v8 driver]

Its rated for 36 Nm and 4000rpm in constant use in a

you dont have a clue how much power (nm) is transmitted true that little shaft, dont you?

did you ever primed a engine with a decent drilling machine? lets say 750 watts? you will soon find out that the 750 watt drilling machine has problems turning the shaft when the oil pressure builds up and starts to slowdown and smoke.

a good 750 watt drilling machine delivers around 50 to 60 nm off torque.

you lose about 1 hp every 1000 rpm/ 1 bar increase. luckely the release valves opens at a certain pressure, reducing the load a bit for the driveshaft.

the stock drive shaft are marginal in term off handeling torque. with a high pressure or high volume oil pump, the power needed to turn the oil pump, increases.

the small block v8 uses a similair diameter for the shaft and i broke it 2 times. now i use a 12 mm shaft made out off hardend tool steel, just to resist the torque and keep it from snapping off.

that 36 nm u joint will not live long in the application. but its your engine. i will not feel the pain if you ruin your engine.

[Janspeedcapri]

A drill that is rated at 70nm does not deliver 70nm in operation - 70nm is the initial torque it can apply for a moment when the trigger is pulled. The torque it actually delivers while turning fast enough to pump the oil is far less.
They rate the torque on the lowest gear which will only turn about 500 rpm or less. If you had the drill in hi speed, it will be delivering probably a third of that figure.

I'll go for the 55nm one with a gatter round it, packed with grease - that way if does fail, it will be contained. Any parts that do escape would in all likelyhood be held by the magnet I will be fitting to the sump and too large to be picked up.
Also in the event of failure, my accusump would maintain oil pressure long enough for emerald to shut the engine down without damage. Emerald will be set up so that if the pressure inside the accusump falls below a threshold, it shuts the engine down.

edit - I was wrong about the torque rating of drills... its worse! the quoted figure is not the amount of torque the drill can supply while turning - its the peak, momentary torque it can exert at ZERO rpm, on a fixed spindle... and it only lasts a moment, like the iniital inertia you feel when you give the trigger a squeeze, then it drops and the elecricity is converted into heat instead of torque as you burn out the drill.  On a turning spindle, with every revolution, the torque drops off more and more. Dewalt no longer use the system because its so misrepresentative of what work a drill can actually do.

[capri v8 driver]

like i said before, i will not feel the pain if you ruin your engine.

if you want to use u joints in the oil pump driveshaft, be my guest.

if your idea would be good, car and engine manufators already would have used it to gain clearance or to put the pump in a more convinient place. i have never seen this, do you?

as for the electric drill, maybe a chinese drill will have a power drop. or the battery is not full enough. its has a electric motor, and as long if the power is suplyed (with a cord, plugged in to the wall socked for instance) it will keep the torque.

why do you think are cars with electric motor so fast in accelaration?

sit down and relax, here is the proof:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=369h-SEBXd8&feature=related

it does 10.258 @ 123.79 MPH now. not bad for a oversized power drill.

if the torque would be dropping, it would not run these times.

dont make it harder than it is . i think if you cut a 45 degree angle on the edge where the oil pump now hits, have have the clearance you need and that will not weaken the girdle.

easy to do with a angle grinder and a sanding disk.

[capri v8 driver]

edit - I was wrong about the torque rating of drills... its worse! the quoted figure is not the amount of torque the drill can supply while turning - its the peak, momentary torque it can exert at ZERO rpm, on a fixed spindle... and it only lasts a moment, like the iniital inertia you feel when you give the trigger a squeeze, then it drops and the elecricity is converted into heat instead of torque as you burn out the drill.  On a turning spindle, with every revolution, the torque drops off more and more. Dewalt no longer use the system because its so misrepresentative of what work a drill can actually do.

if thats is true, why does my drill keep turning when i am drill into, well, in any material, if there is no torque??? you need torque to get started, i agree one that one. but you need torque to keep the drill turning when there is more resistance. and when priming a oil pump there is a lot off resistance as the speed goes up.

trust me, i killed a few drilling machines with priming a engine. 

[Janspeedcapri]

if your idea would be good, car and engine manufators already would have used it to gain clearance or to put the pump in a more convinient place. i have never seen this, do you?

Car manufacturers do you use UJs - like on propshaft? ...that copes o.k with torque.  They won't be using them to run an oil pump because for them, there are many more convenient/ideal options and totaly different priorities and apart from that, they would never NEED to move an oil pump to gain clearance for anything.

There no reason whatsoever why in principle, a double uj or cardan shaft can't be used to drive anything, even if I'm wrong about how big/small it has to be...

[Lemon-Ade]

edit - I was wrong about the torque rating of drills... its worse! the quoted figure is not the amount of torque the drill can supply while turning - its the peak, momentary torque it can exert at ZERO rpm, on a fixed spindle... and it only lasts a moment, like the iniital inertia you feel when you give the trigger a squeeze, then it drops and the elecricity is converted into heat instead of torque as you burn out the drill.  On a turning spindle, with every revolution, the torque drops off more and more. Dewalt no longer use the system because its so misrepresentative of what work a drill can actually do.

if thats is true, why does my drill keep turning when i am drill into, well, in any material, if there is no torque??? you need torque to get started, i agree one that one. but you need torque to keep the drill turning when there is more resistance. and when priming a oil pump there is a lot off resistance as the speed goes up.

trust me, i killed a few drilling machines with priming a engine. 

Just priming mine a couple of weeks ago and an 18v Dewalt drill couldn't really hack it got so hot and wouldn't go any faster in 2nd or 3rd  I was truly shocked   and the drill is good enough normally...

Cheers Ade

[Janspeedcapri]

Honestly though - ALL drills use the same way of rating them for torque and its a totaly misleading figure - these drills ain't up to it but there torque output in reality is nothing like what you think it is - put it this way 5.5KW or 7.3 HP  @ 2300 rpm corresponds to just 23 Nm of torque! The smallest U.J I mentioned rated at 36 Nm would be WELL over the top for driving an oilpump! ...after all we are talking about an item that is an inch in diameter and is made of hardened steel with roller bearings!!

[capri v8 driver]

do what ever you want, i will say it for the last time: i will not feel the pain if you ruin your engine.

end of story.

we are trying to give you advice, but it seems you already know it all.

[Dave]

Must admit I agree with Paul.

I can't remember if it was the Essex or the earily colonges but for a while Ford had a problem with them oil pump shafts breaking.
Fitting a UJ to it is not something I would feel comfortable with either.

If you have also fitted an increased flow pump or higher pressure one it greatly increases the load on that shaft.
There is some engine builders that won't fit an uprated pump for this reason. ( I don't agree with this).

Also have you allowed for the oil pick-up clearence to the sump as if it's to close it will not suck enough oil.